The MU-puzzle
Hofstadter opens with a game. You get one string, MI, and four rules for transforming strings (e.g. "you may double everything after the M", "you may replace III with U"). The challenge: can you ever produce the string MU?
This is a formal system — symbols manipulated by rules, with no meaning anywhere. Playing it, you notice two ways of operating: working inside the system (mechanically applying rules) and stepping outside it (noticing patterns about the system). A machine grinds inside; a human almost immediately jumps out and asks "wait, is this even possible?" That jump is the book's first hint of intelligence.
The answer, provable only from outside: MU is unreachable, because the number of Is is never divisible by 3 — a fact no amount of rule-following inside the system will ever tell you.